Rodolfo Guzmán, a renowned chef in Santiago, Chile, pulls out a carrot-shaped pod of algae from his test kitchen shelf. “Put it on your tongue for five seconds,” he instructs, leading to an explosion of salty flavor. He envisions children snacking on this healthy seaweed instead of processed snacks.
Chile, with its 4,000-mile coastline, is the world’s largest wild seaweed producer, harvesting 405,000 tonnes annually and contributing over $100 million to the economy. The nutrient-rich Humboldt Current along the coast creates an ideal environment for diverse seaweed populations.
Despite this abundance, most of Chile’s seaweed is exported for industrial and pharmaceutical uses, leaving its culinary potential largely unexplored. Guzmán aims to change that. His restaurant, Boragó, frequently ranks among the world’s top 50, showcasing ingredients from Chile’s diverse landscapes, including seaweeds.
One of Guzmán’s favorites is the “sea carrot,” a kelp float he describes as a “pure, natural umami bomb.” His team has crystallized its amino acids, making it akin to natural MSG.
Guzmán’s experimental style drives him to master seaweed’s textures and flavors. His team’s innovation division, Original Processes, focuses on fungi, rock plants, sea animals, and seaweeds. Among the challenging ingredients is the luga (Sarcothalia crispata), a rubbery seaweed initially deemed inedible due to its slimy texture and bitter taste. After months of experiments, Guzmán found that spraying a kefir solution during cooking balanced its pH and enhanced its flavor. Now, luga features as a mini empanada filling on Boragó’s menu.
Marine ecologist Julio Vasquéz applauds Guzmán’s efforts to popularize seaweed in Chile. With over 800 endemic species, Chile has vast potential for human consumption. Yet, bold chefs willing to experiment are needed. Chile’s well-regulated seaweed industry allows local fishers to request exclusive fishing areas, supporting sustainable practices.
Guzmán collaborates with over 200 foragers, including Gisella Olguín from Bucalemu. Olguín and her partner collect seaweeds daily, often baffled by Guzmán’s unusual requests. However, their partnership ensures fair compensation, bypassing middlemen.
Olguín, from a fisher family, grew up eating seaweed. Despite its historical significance, seaweed consumption remains rare outside coastal communities and Indigenous populations. The government’s initiative to increase seafood consumption includes integrating seaweed into public school meals.
Seaweed is a common snack in Asia, and Guzmán dreams of creating similar healthy snacks for children. Yet, his seaweed innovations have not reached beyond fine-dining circles. Guzmán believes that spreading knowledge is key before scaling up production.
“At the end of the day, we’re a tiny restaurant,” he says. “We are still trying to figure out the next step to feed more people. All I know is that it tastes really good.”
